Tango Stories #4 - Calle Corrientes

TANGO STORIES #4 - Tango History along Corrientes Street

The lyrics of many tangos talk about the old Calle Corrientes of early 20th century Buenos Aires, where so much tango history was made. A lot of the famous bars, theaters and milongas were located along this narrow street. In them the great orchestras and singers performed the tango hits of their day.  But in the 1930’s the city government decided that Calle Corrientes had to be widened in order to accommodate the growing crowds of people and increasing traffic as the city expanded. As part of the widening project, many of the famous buildings had to be demolished, including the Café Dominguez (1537) and the theaters Politeama Argentino (1490), Apolo (1382), Odeón (782) and the old Opera (800).  The street widening was finished in 1936 and it was once again reopened, now as the Avenida Corrientes. Today it is still the hub of nightlife in the City of Buenos Aires. Many memorials and plaques have been placed along Corrientes to commemorate the famous places and artists of tango.  

Here are a few of the tango lyrics about Calle Corrientes:

Esta es mi calle Corrientes

This is my Corrientes street

Los bares, los teatros, los cines, la gente

Muchachas hermosas de rítmico andar,

Nocturna porteña es lindo su ambiente

Ofrece de todo mi calle sin par.

Palabras, bullicio, desfile surtido

Quien vive un cariño, quien sufre amargor,

Piropo y ensueño tristeza y olvido

Y el tango cantando su historia de amor.

Ésta es mi calle Corrientes

La de mi dulce bohemia . . . . . .

Bars, theaters, cinemas, people

Beautiful girls walking rhythmically,

Buenos Aires nightlife is beautiful

It offers all my street without peer.

Words, hustle, assorted parade

Who lives a love, who suffers bitterness,

Compliment and sad reverie and oblivion

And the tango singing his love story.

This is my Corrientes street 

That of my sweet bohemia  . . . .

Letra y música : Felipe Mitre Navas 1944

Translation by Unknown

Some tangos tell of the old, narrow street of tango’s formative years and the new wide Corrientes, nearly purged of its tango history; of the grandeur and the squalor; of both the real landmarks and the fictitious addresses.  For example, this secret hideaway at number 348:

A Media Luz

Soft Light

Corrientes 3-4-8

Segundo piso, ascensor.

No hay porteros ni vecinos

Adentro, cocktail y amor . . . .

Corrientes No. 3-4-8

Second floor, up the elevator

There's no concierge, no neighbours

Inside, cocktails and love . . .

Letra: Edgardo Donato 

Translation by Paul Bottomer

The Café Dominguez literary bar was located on Corrientes between Paraná and Montevideo, and was a meeting place for poets and musicians in the early part of the last century. It was the first one to be open twenty-four hours.  This location is now occupied by a hotel and a theater.

Café Dominguez 

Café Dominguez

Café Domínguez de la vieja calle Corrientes

que ya no queda

café del cuarteto bravo de Graciano de Leone

a tus mesas caían Pirincho, Arola, Firpo y Pacho

a escuchar tus tangos

era el imán que atraía

como el alcohol atrae a los borrachos

Café Domínguez de la vieja calle Corrientes

que ya no queda.

Café Dominguez on the old Corrientes Street

That’s no longer there.

Café of the Cuarteto Bravo of Graciano de Leone

To your tables came Pirincho, Arolas, Firpo and Pacho

To listen to your tangos

It was the magnet that drew people

Like alcohol attracts drunkards

Café Dominguez on the old Corrientes Street

That’s no longer there.

Lyrics:  Enrique Cadícamo (he lived at #1330)

Translation by Paul Bottomer

And of those people on the street who are less fortunate

Tristezas de la calle Corrientes

Corrientes Street Blues

Calle como valle

de monedas para el pan.

Río sin desvío,

donde sufre la ciudad.

¡Qué triste palidez

tienen tus luces!

Tus letreros

sueñan cruces,

tus afiches

carcajadas de cartón.

Risa que precisa

la confianza del alcohol.

Llantos hechos cantos

pa' vendernos un amor . . . .

Street like a valley

begging for coins.

River without bends,

where the city suffers.

What sadness

in your pale lights!

Your signs burdened

by dreams,

and your posters...

only cardboard laughter.

Laughter that needs

the courage of alcohol.

Crying turned into songs

of love for sale . . . .

Letra: Homero Expósito (1942)

Translation by Rick McGarrey, 

Finally, at the end of Avenida Corrientes lies the Chacarita Cemetery.  The whole world of tango’s past rests there, Osvaldo Pugliese, Carlos Gardel, Francisco Canaro and dozens more of the famous and respected musicians and poets of tango.
Sources:  hermanotango.com; es.wikipedia.org;  facebook group “Today’s Tango is“; Tango and Chaos.org.

By Donald Cooper